Graphics For The Motorcycle Helmet
by: Low Jeremy
Buying a motorcycle is not that different from buying a car. Prospective buyers need to first check the models that are available in the market and then select the one that is most appropriate to their needs and of course to their budget. But focusing too much on the features can actually make one forget to buy one thing that is really essential when purchasing a motorcycle— the helmet.
Motorcycle helmets are so important and vital to one’s safety that state laws have actually required people to wear them while riding the bike. There are many types to choose from. But whatever the designs or the materials, the person should check the helmet for safety and comfort before buying it and cruising down the highway on the motorbike.
People will notice that most of the headgears sold come in bright colors such as white, red, yellow and orange. The reason for this is to warn other drivers, who are yards away. Bright colors are more visible especially at night.
Some people, however, feel that bright colors are not enough for the safety of the biker. The number of accidents has actually gone up by 12 percent compared to last year’s in a report given by the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute. The only way to prevent the numbers from further going up is to provide added protection, perhaps in terms of blinking lights, spray paints and even glittering stickers.
Most people put reflective stickers on the side and back of the helmet. Others spray paint this with a certain design. Since the cost for both is almost the same, the person can try having both after choosing the right graphics.
Lightning bolt, reflective eagle, checker flag and halo are just some of the hundreds of graphics that can be placed on the helmet. These are usually one or three inches long going from one side of the headgear to the next. The individual will not have a hard time looking for an auto detailing shop that offer these services. Some can be found around the neighborhood while others over the Internet.
The individual should however look at the catalog before making any decision. The price for the graphics may go from $4 to $8 a piece. This will depend on how complex the design is especially if it is custom-made. It is advisable then to compare the prices offered because it is possible that one dealer will give this at a more affordable rate with an added freebie.
When a graphic design is chosen, the person will have to leave the helmet with the manufacturer. Some even ship it back. The helmets will then be returned in a few days.
People will notice the difference between a plain and colored helmet and one that has graphics on it. For as long as people ride motorcycles, there will always be a market for those who want something different on their helmet.
www.CarsNet.com/motorcycle
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Tuesday, May 8, 2007
Why I Like Classic Car & Cycle People!
While watching the TV news, I was appalled at how many people can't just get along, to quote Rodney King. It is truly a very sad situation. Then I thought about all the different types of people we have at our event and how well they all get along.
In the 18 years we have been doing our events, we have never had any trouble with the participants at our shows. Bikers, Low Riders, Classic Cars, Hot Rodders, Sports Cars types and Tuner owners, they all attend our classic car & cycle show and all of them have a great time. Don't get me wrong, they all have different likes and dislikes, but they are tolerant of their fellow gear heads.
The world could learn a lot from Gear Heads! Learn to appreciate the other person's point of view. Low Riders always draw a crowd when they put their vehicles through their "dance". Now I'm not at all interested in having a car that hops, but I sure can appreciate the work and engineering that goes into allowing thousands of pounds of Chevy to bounce six feet off the ground. I also don't want a car with 1000 horsepower with a blower sticking out of the hood. but I sure do enjoy checking out those types of cars at the car shows.
The way I see it, we are all different and we should revel in these differences not curse them. Diversity makes the world an interesting and fun place to live in. It's a shame that some people feel its either their way or the highway. Whether its religion, politics or drive trains, we all need to love our neighbors and that which makes them unique.
If the world was made of Classic Car and Cycle People, what a wonderful place it would be!
See Ya There!
Ray Taylor
Owner of the San Diego Auto Swap and the Classic Cars Net Free Classifieds
Sunday, April 29, 2007
A Fix For Classic Car Show Powering Voting
A Fix For Classic Car Show Power Voting
by: Ray Taylor
As I wrote in a previous article, "Classic Car Show Power Voting", there has been a real challenge at my San Diego Classic Car & Cycle Show & Swap with Power Voting. I think I may have found a way to help reduce the imbalance in voting results at People's Choice type of Car Shows.
For those who don't know, Power Voting is when groups such as Car Clubs go to a People's Choice Type Car Show and vote for all their club members and no one else. I believe people should be able to vote for whomever they please. The challenge comes about when those attending the event don't participate by casting their votes for their favorite vehicles. Without a large number of votes being cast, Power Voting can sway the results so the majority of the trophies go to the Power Voting Group.
Voter Apathy strikes again! I think I have found a fix that will help make the voting results more equitable for all entries.
I am going to start doing at my Car Shows what the state of New Mexico is doing to help encourage their people to get out and vote. They bribe them! How? When they vote, they are entered into a Voter's Lottery! That's exactly what I am going to do too!!! When you cast your vote at my events from now, on you will receive a ticket for a Special Raffle just for Voters! Bribery works well with politicians; I think it will help cancel out the effects of Power Voting.
If you have any questions or suggestions about this new addition to my shows, please feel free to contact me. I really appreciate and enjoy hearing your ideas and feedback.
On Memorial Day, Monday, May 28 from 6am to 2pm we will be holding our Annual "Salute Our Troops" Classic Car & Cycle Show & Swap in the SW lot of San Diego Qualcomm Stadium. All Active Military will be given Free entry. If they are in Uniform, I will also treat them to Free Refreshments.
Please come out on Memorial Day, Monday, May 28 and show your support!
Grab A Friend, Bring a G.I., and We'll See Ya There!
Ray Taylor
www.CarsNet.com
by: Ray Taylor
As I wrote in a previous article, "Classic Car Show Power Voting", there has been a real challenge at my San Diego Classic Car & Cycle Show & Swap with Power Voting. I think I may have found a way to help reduce the imbalance in voting results at People's Choice type of Car Shows.
For those who don't know, Power Voting is when groups such as Car Clubs go to a People's Choice Type Car Show and vote for all their club members and no one else. I believe people should be able to vote for whomever they please. The challenge comes about when those attending the event don't participate by casting their votes for their favorite vehicles. Without a large number of votes being cast, Power Voting can sway the results so the majority of the trophies go to the Power Voting Group.
Voter Apathy strikes again! I think I have found a fix that will help make the voting results more equitable for all entries.
I am going to start doing at my Car Shows what the state of New Mexico is doing to help encourage their people to get out and vote. They bribe them! How? When they vote, they are entered into a Voter's Lottery! That's exactly what I am going to do too!!! When you cast your vote at my events from now, on you will receive a ticket for a Special Raffle just for Voters! Bribery works well with politicians; I think it will help cancel out the effects of Power Voting.
If you have any questions or suggestions about this new addition to my shows, please feel free to contact me. I really appreciate and enjoy hearing your ideas and feedback.
On Memorial Day, Monday, May 28 from 6am to 2pm we will be holding our Annual "Salute Our Troops" Classic Car & Cycle Show & Swap in the SW lot of San Diego Qualcomm Stadium. All Active Military will be given Free entry. If they are in Uniform, I will also treat them to Free Refreshments.
Please come out on Memorial Day, Monday, May 28 and show your support!
Grab A Friend, Bring a G.I., and We'll See Ya There!
Ray Taylor
www.CarsNet.com
Monday, April 16, 2007
MOTORCYCLE BALANCING ACT
MOTORCYCLE BALANCING ACT
as they relate to single track vehicles (motorcycles in other words).
it falls over, if left to its own devices when stationary.
is to move the tyre contact patch line to under the new position of the C.of
G. If the bike is stationary this can only be done to a limited extent by moving
the bars, however once under way we can steer the bike to place the position
of the tyre line wherever we need it, and this is why it is easier to balance
when moving. The other way to maintain low speed balance is by moving the combined
C.of G. of both the rider and machine to above the line joining the tyre contact
patches. This is what trials riders are doing when moving their bodies from
side to side whilst standing up. The high C.of G. of the rider has more effect
on the toppling over moment and also gives more control over the position of
the bike's C.of G. Thus to a great extent the process of low speed balance is
dependent on the individual skill of the rider. In addition, some bike parameters
can also affect the ease of remaining upright, the main ones being:
# 1. A low C.of G height helps.
# 2. A large trail changes the position of the tyre line more for a given handlebar
movement.
# 3. A small rake angle reduces the fall of the steering head when the bars
are turned away from the straight ahead position, assisting with the balance
process.
to maintain its plane of rotation. In other words, while it can easily be moved
laterally along the axis of spin, it resists tilting about any other axis, and
more importantly, when it is tilted it automatically causes a strong twisting
moment about an axis at 90 degrees to that of the original tilt. This twisting
effect increases as the speed of the wheel rises, this is known as gyroscopic
precession. When you have finished reading this, I expect you to go and remove
the front wheel from your brother's mountain-bike, if you then obey the following
intructions you will get a graphic practical demonstration of the strength of
these precessional forces, which are so vital to the balance and steering of
any bike. Firstly hold the wheel upright, as in, get your young brother (well
he won't be out riding, will he?) to spin it so that the top of the wheel is
moving away from you, as if it were the front wheel of a machine you were riding.
If you then try to tilt the spindle to the LEFT (equivalent to banking your
machine) you will find that the wheel _turns instantly and strongly to the LEFT,
as if steered by an invisible hand. In other words, your attempt to tilt the
wheel about its fore-and-aft axis has produced a torque swivelling it about
its vertical axis. Now start again but this time turn the wheel to the LEFT
about a vertical axis, just as sharply and strongly it will bank to the RIGHT.
Try both these manoeuvres again, but do it at different wheel speeds and tilting
speeds, you will see that the precessional forces depend strongly on these factors.
Note particularly, the directions in which these forces operate as this is important
for the automatic retention of balance. Let us now see how these forces keep
the machine balanced and on a relatively straight path without assistance from
the rider. Suppose the bike, whilst travelling along at a normal speed, starts
to fall to the left under the action of some extraneous influence. As we have
just seen, gyroscopic precession of the front wheel immediately turns it to
the left. This sets the machine on a curved path (to the left), so creating
a centrifugal force (to the right), which counters the lean and tends to restore
the machine to the vertical, the precessional forces are thus reversed tending
to restore the steering to the straight ahead position. In practice, that which
we regard as riding in a straight line, is really a series of balance correcting
wobbles, if we could look at the actual paths taken by the centre-lines of the
wheels, we should see that the front wheel path continually crosses that of
the rear. In the explanation above, I have only described the effects on the
front wheel, precessional forces are at work on the rear also, but it is much
harder to steer the rear wheel independently, as the whole bike must yaw, rather
than just the wheel and forks, as on the front. Hence, only a small contribution
is made to the auto-balance mechanism by the rear. We have now considered balance
in a straight line, but as we lean when cornering, there must be other factors
at work to maintain equilibrium under these conditions.
opposing moments, the one due to centrifugal force acting outward, and the other
to gravitational force acting downward (both acting through the C.of G.). The
actual angle, which depends on the radius of the turn and the speed of the machine,
is that at which the resultant of the two forces passes through a line joining
the front and rear tyre contact patches. This is the steady-state roll axis.
But how do we actually initiate the turn - do we lean or do we steer first?
Let's see what happens with each method. If we turn the handle-bar in the direction
in which we want to go, both centrifugal force and the front wheel precession
would cause the bike to topple outward, and that leads to gravel rash. But if
we momentarily try to turn the bar quickly in the opposite direction, (sometimes
known as counter steering) then these two forces will combine to bank the machine
to the correct side. Gravity will then augment the banking effect and this,
in turn, will give rise to gyroscopic forces helping to steer the front wheel
into the curve, whereupon the processes for maintaining balance as described
above take over and keep the bike on our chosen path. This is all very well,
I hear you say, but if this is the way to corner, how come we can steer a bike
no-hands. Well, it certainly is possible to do so, but only with a lot more
difficulty. Precise control and tight turns are difficult to accomplish without
handle-bar manipulation. Just try it! Let's consider the no-hands situation.
As we saw earlier, simply banking the bike steers the front wheel in the correct
direction automatically, through precession. But how do we make the bike lean
in the first place, what do we have to push against? There is nothing solid
to push against and so the only way to apply bank (without the facility of steering),
is to push against the machine with the inertia of our own body. This means
in practice, that in order to lean the bike to the right, we must initially
move our body to the left. So now we have two possible methods of initiating
a turn, and it is interesting to note that in both of them (banking and reverse
handle-bar torque) our physical effort is in the opposite sense to that which
might be thought natural, but when learning we adapt quickly and the required
action becomes subconsciously automatic. It is these reverse actions that require
us to learn to ride in the first place, when learning most of us wobble about
out of control until our brain latches on to the fact that counter-steering
and counter-leaning is the way to do it. Once the brain has switched into reverse
gear, it becomes instinctive and is usually with us for life, and we could return
to riding after a long layoff with no need to relearn the art of balancing or
steering. So which of these two possible methods of initiating a turn do we
use in practice? We probably subconsciously combine both methods, and the pressure
on the inner handgrip is partly forward (counter-steering) and partly downward
(banking). Remember though, that the actual counter-steering movement is very
small, since gyroscopic precession depends for its strength on the speed of
movement not on the amount of movement. If you still don't believe that steering
to the opposite side works, then next time you are out riding, try jerking the
bars quickly to one side, and see what happens. Leave yourself plenty of road
if your reactions are a bit on the slow side. Do this at about 40 mph., and
don't blame me if you fall off. The relative proportions with which we combine
the two methods depend partly on riding style but also on speed and machine
characteristics. For example, a heavy machine with light wheels at low speeds
demands a different technique from that applicable to a light weight machine
with heavy wheels at high speeds, and hence the two machines will have a different
feel. But humans adapt quickly and the correct technique soon becomes second
nature. It may seem strange that in the above discussion no mention has been
made of such important parameters as, steering geometry, wheel and tyre size,
wheelbase, frame stiffness and so on. This is simply because, balance and the
ability to start and maintain a turn can be achieved within a wide range of
these parameters. That is not to say that these factors are unimportant. We
shall now look a little more closely at one of the more important parameters
that come under the heading of steering geometry, i.e. TRAIL. Consider first,
which shows the basics of steering geometry.
of straight line stability, in addition to that obtained by precessional effects
as described above. But trail also introduces other effects which are vital
to the feel and handling of the motorcycle.
is much greater than that of the front, the rear wheel is the more important
in this respect. The reverse is actually the case for several reasons.
© Tony Foale 1986 -- 1997
Let's return to basics and look at the mechanisms of stability and steering,as they relate to single track vehicles (motorcycles in other words).
BALANCE.
As a single track vehicle, a motorcycle lacks inherent static balance, i.e.it falls over, if left to its own devices when stationary.
Once moving above a certain speed however even the most uncoordinated riders
find that the machine seems to support itself. So it is obvious that there are
two aspects of the balance process, the low speed case and that in the higher
speed ranges. There have always been clever sods who can balance indefinitely
on a stationary bike, but for most of us we need a minimum of forward motion
before this is possible. However, at these low speeds it is necessary to move
the handlebars from side to side to stay upright, and as all trials riders know,
it is easier if we stand on the footrests instead of sitting down. Let's examine
why. Now, if the combined centre of gravity (C.of G.) is vertically above the
line joining the front and rear tyre contact patches, then balance is achieved,
but this is an unstable situation, any small distubance such as a light breeze
will be enough to start a topple over, i.e. the C.of G. moves sideways.
is to move the tyre contact patch line to under the new position of the C.of
G. If the bike is stationary this can only be done to a limited extent by moving
the bars, however once under way we can steer the bike to place the position
of the tyre line wherever we need it, and this is why it is easier to balance
when moving. The other way to maintain low speed balance is by moving the combined
C.of G. of both the rider and machine to above the line joining the tyre contact
patches. This is what trials riders are doing when moving their bodies from
side to side whilst standing up. The high C.of G. of the rider has more effect
on the toppling over moment and also gives more control over the position of
the bike's C.of G. Thus to a great extent the process of low speed balance is
dependent on the individual skill of the rider. In addition, some bike parameters
can also affect the ease of remaining upright, the main ones being:
# 1. A low C.of G height helps.
# 2. A large trail changes the position of the tyre line more for a given handlebar
movement.
# 3. A small rake angle reduces the fall of the steering head when the bars
are turned away from the straight ahead position, assisting with the balance
process.
The balance mechanism at higher speeds is more complex, but at least is largely
automatic and independent of rider ability. To understand the action it is necessary
to look at a few properties of gyroscopes, which is another way of describing
spinning motorcycle wheels.
to maintain its plane of rotation. In other words, while it can easily be moved
laterally along the axis of spin, it resists tilting about any other axis, and
more importantly, when it is tilted it automatically causes a strong twisting
moment about an axis at 90 degrees to that of the original tilt. This twisting
effect increases as the speed of the wheel rises, this is known as gyroscopic
precession. When you have finished reading this, I expect you to go and remove
the front wheel from your brother's mountain-bike, if you then obey the following
intructions you will get a graphic practical demonstration of the strength of
these precessional forces, which are so vital to the balance and steering of
any bike. Firstly hold the wheel upright, as in, get your young brother (well
he won't be out riding, will he?) to spin it so that the top of the wheel is
moving away from you, as if it were the front wheel of a machine you were riding.
If you then try to tilt the spindle to the LEFT (equivalent to banking your
machine) you will find that the wheel _turns instantly and strongly to the LEFT,
as if steered by an invisible hand. In other words, your attempt to tilt the
wheel about its fore-and-aft axis has produced a torque swivelling it about
its vertical axis. Now start again but this time turn the wheel to the LEFT
about a vertical axis, just as sharply and strongly it will bank to the RIGHT.
Try both these manoeuvres again, but do it at different wheel speeds and tilting
speeds, you will see that the precessional forces depend strongly on these factors.
Note particularly, the directions in which these forces operate as this is important
for the automatic retention of balance. Let us now see how these forces keep
the machine balanced and on a relatively straight path without assistance from
the rider. Suppose the bike, whilst travelling along at a normal speed, starts
to fall to the left under the action of some extraneous influence. As we have
just seen, gyroscopic precession of the front wheel immediately turns it to
the left. This sets the machine on a curved path (to the left), so creating
a centrifugal force (to the right), which counters the lean and tends to restore
the machine to the vertical, the precessional forces are thus reversed tending
to restore the steering to the straight ahead position. In practice, that which
we regard as riding in a straight line, is really a series of balance correcting
wobbles, if we could look at the actual paths taken by the centre-lines of the
wheels, we should see that the front wheel path continually crosses that of
the rear. In the explanation above, I have only described the effects on the
front wheel, precessional forces are at work on the rear also, but it is much
harder to steer the rear wheel independently, as the whole bike must yaw, rather
than just the wheel and forks, as on the front. Hence, only a small contribution
is made to the auto-balance mechanism by the rear. We have now considered balance
in a straight line, but as we lean when cornering, there must be other factors
at work to maintain equilibrium under these conditions.
STEERING (CORNERING).
To analyse this, we can divide it into two phases;-1. Initiating the turn,
2. Maintaining the turn.Since the second phase is easier to analyse, let's look at it first. It is
not feasible to steer a motorcycle through a corner in a substantially upright
position, as in a car or side-car outfit, because the centrifugal force generated
would cause it to fall outward. Hence we must bank the bike inward so that this
tendency is counteracted by the machines weight tending to make it fall inward.
opposing moments, the one due to centrifugal force acting outward, and the other
to gravitational force acting downward (both acting through the C.of G.). The
actual angle, which depends on the radius of the turn and the speed of the machine,
is that at which the resultant of the two forces passes through a line joining
the front and rear tyre contact patches. This is the steady-state roll axis.
But how do we actually initiate the turn - do we lean or do we steer first?
Let's see what happens with each method. If we turn the handle-bar in the direction
in which we want to go, both centrifugal force and the front wheel precession
would cause the bike to topple outward, and that leads to gravel rash. But if
we momentarily try to turn the bar quickly in the opposite direction, (sometimes
known as counter steering) then these two forces will combine to bank the machine
to the correct side. Gravity will then augment the banking effect and this,
in turn, will give rise to gyroscopic forces helping to steer the front wheel
into the curve, whereupon the processes for maintaining balance as described
above take over and keep the bike on our chosen path. This is all very well,
I hear you say, but if this is the way to corner, how come we can steer a bike
no-hands. Well, it certainly is possible to do so, but only with a lot more
difficulty. Precise control and tight turns are difficult to accomplish without
handle-bar manipulation. Just try it! Let's consider the no-hands situation.
As we saw earlier, simply banking the bike steers the front wheel in the correct
direction automatically, through precession. But how do we make the bike lean
in the first place, what do we have to push against? There is nothing solid
to push against and so the only way to apply bank (without the facility of steering),
is to push against the machine with the inertia of our own body. This means
in practice, that in order to lean the bike to the right, we must initially
move our body to the left. So now we have two possible methods of initiating
a turn, and it is interesting to note that in both of them (banking and reverse
handle-bar torque) our physical effort is in the opposite sense to that which
might be thought natural, but when learning we adapt quickly and the required
action becomes subconsciously automatic. It is these reverse actions that require
us to learn to ride in the first place, when learning most of us wobble about
out of control until our brain latches on to the fact that counter-steering
and counter-leaning is the way to do it. Once the brain has switched into reverse
gear, it becomes instinctive and is usually with us for life, and we could return
to riding after a long layoff with no need to relearn the art of balancing or
steering. So which of these two possible methods of initiating a turn do we
use in practice? We probably subconsciously combine both methods, and the pressure
on the inner handgrip is partly forward (counter-steering) and partly downward
(banking). Remember though, that the actual counter-steering movement is very
small, since gyroscopic precession depends for its strength on the speed of
movement not on the amount of movement. If you still don't believe that steering
to the opposite side works, then next time you are out riding, try jerking the
bars quickly to one side, and see what happens. Leave yourself plenty of road
if your reactions are a bit on the slow side. Do this at about 40 mph., and
don't blame me if you fall off. The relative proportions with which we combine
the two methods depend partly on riding style but also on speed and machine
characteristics. For example, a heavy machine with light wheels at low speeds
demands a different technique from that applicable to a light weight machine
with heavy wheels at high speeds, and hence the two machines will have a different
feel. But humans adapt quickly and the correct technique soon becomes second
nature. It may seem strange that in the above discussion no mention has been
made of such important parameters as, steering geometry, wheel and tyre size,
wheelbase, frame stiffness and so on. This is simply because, balance and the
ability to start and maintain a turn can be achieved within a wide range of
these parameters. That is not to say that these factors are unimportant. We
shall now look a little more closely at one of the more important parameters
that come under the heading of steering geometry, i.e. TRAIL. Consider first,
which shows the basics of steering geometry.
TRAIL.
The primary function of this, it is often said, is to build in a certain amountof straight line stability, in addition to that obtained by precessional effects
as described above. But trail also introduces other effects which are vital
to the feel and handling of the motorcycle.
If the wheel gets displaced from the straight ahead position, i.e. the wheel
is at an angle to the direction of travel (slip angle is the technical term),
a force at right angles to the tyre is generated. Since the contact patch is
behind the steering axis (positive trail) then this force acts on a lever arm
(approximately equal to the trail) to provide a correcting torque to the angled
wheel. That is to say, if the steering is deflected by some cause e.g. uneven
road surface, then positive trail automatically counter-acts the displacement
and gives a measure of directional stability. However, as shown earlier, we
cannot just consider any steering effect in isolation, gyroscopic forces must
be considered also, suffice to say, at this stage, that in this case trail and
precession work in harmony to keep us on the straight and narrow.
is much greater than that of the front, the rear wheel is the more important
in this respect. The reverse is actually the case for several reasons.
Imagine that the contact patch of each wheel is, in turn, displaced sideways
by the same amount (say ½ inch.). The front wheel will then be turned
by approximately 7-10 degrees (depending on the value of trail) about the steering
axis, this gives rise to a slip angle of the same amount and generates a sideways
force that has only the relatively small inertia of the front wheel and forks
to accelerate back to the straight-ahead position. But the slip angle of the
displaced rear wheel will be much less (about ½ degree) and so the restoring
force will be reduced accordingly, but this also has to act on the inertia of
a major proportion of the machine and rider, hence the response is much slower
than is the case with the front wheel. From this, we can see that increasing
the trail as a means of increasing the restoring tendency on the wheels is subject
to the law of diminishing returns. It must also be emphasized that the distubance
to a machine's direction of travel, due to a sideways displacement of the tyre
contact patch, is less from the rear wheel than the front because of the much
smaller angle to the direction of travel that the displacement causes. To summerize,
while the large trail of the rear wheel has a relatively small restoring effect,
the effect of rear wheel displacement on directional stability is also small,
and hence compensates. As mentioned before, trail has effects other than directional
stability, let's look at a couple of the more important ones.
If we lean a stationary machine to one side and then turn the handlebars, we
find that the steering head rises and falls depending on the position of the
steering. In motion, the effective weight of the bike and rider supported by
the steering head, is reacted to the ground through the tyre contact patch.
This force tends to turn the steering to the position where the steering head
is lowest (i.e. the position of minimum potential energy). For a given amount
of trail, this steering angle is affected by rake angle and wheel diameter,
one reason why different size wheels feel different, if all else remains the
same. As long as we have positive trail, as is normal, then this turning effect
is into the corner. Thus the amount of front wheel trail affects the amount
of steering torque that the rider must apply (hence the feel of the steering)
to maintain the correct steering angle consistant with the radius of the turn
and the bike's speed. Some bikes seem to need to be held down into a corner,
whilst others need the opposite approach. This is also influenced heavily by
tyre characteristics, but that will have to wait for another occasion.
As we all know, even when we are riding straight ahead the steering feels lighter
on wet and slippery roads than on dry. This is because as we have seen, our
seemingly straight line is actually a series of balance correcting curves, with
the handlebars turning minutely from side to side all the time. Also as we have
seen, a small steering displacement produces a slip angle, which causes a restoring
torque. For a given slip angle, this torque depends on tyre properties, surface
adhesion and trail. On slippery surfaces the correcting torque is less, thus
through the handlebars, we get a feedback (dependent on trail) for the amount
of grip available. A bike with only a small trail value may give too much of
a sense of slipperiness in the wet, and give the rider a certain degree of apprehension,
whereas on the other hand, a large trail, under these conditions, may give out
a feeling of security, which can easily engender overconfidence with predictable
results.
Tuesday, April 3, 2007
Classic Car Show Power Voting
Classic Car Show Power Voting
By: Ray Taylor
I received a call from a very nice lady after our last event. She was concerned and confused. She was concerned with the number of trophies won by Clubs. She was also confused as to how club members seemed to win a majority of the trophies. I then explained Power Voting to her. Here's what I said.
Power Voting is when all the group/club members vote for all the other club members in the show. This almost guarantees the club will have lots of winners. The reason that this small group of 10 to 30 club members can sway the results is the same reason we end up with lousy politicians Apathy!
Not voting puts the results in the hands of a few rather than the many. Power Voting would be ineffective at Car Shows if a majority of the attendees would take the time to check out the cars and vote for their favorites. If the General Public would just do that, then Power Voting would be of little consequence. But if the General Public doesn't want to be bothered with voting, then Power Voting can absolutely affect the outcome of the trophies awarded.
I know some of you are thinking, "Why not have trophy classes? Won't that help?" We tried having trophy classes for years. It just didn't work and was really unfair to some. One time we would have dozens of cars in the Street Rod Class, then the next time only a few. This was true for almost every show where we had classes. One class would be overloaded and another under represented. Then when we changed things, the problem still existed only in different classes. We felt like a dog chasing its tail trying to keep the classes balanced. It just didn't work. So now we do a People's Choice Award system: if the people like your ride AND they vote for it, you win! The best ideas are always the simplest: get the most votes, and you get Best of Show. This has resulted in the usual outcome, like the Low Rider Bike winning Best of Show in January. The people loved his bike, and he got the most votes so he Won! It's that simple.
For our part, we will continue to ask people to take a ballot and vote for their top 10 favorite vehicles. If they don't, then groups/clubs will control the outcome of the People's Choice Awards at any Car Show. Please do your part, come out on Monday, Memorial Day, May 28 to the next San Diego Car & Cycle Show & Swap at the Q and VOTE!.
See Ya There!
Ray Taylor
Owner of the San Diego Classic Car & Cycle-Show & Swap
and Classic Cars Net Free Classifieds
By: Ray Taylor
I received a call from a very nice lady after our last event. She was concerned and confused. She was concerned with the number of trophies won by Clubs. She was also confused as to how club members seemed to win a majority of the trophies. I then explained Power Voting to her. Here's what I said.
Power Voting is when all the group/club members vote for all the other club members in the show. This almost guarantees the club will have lots of winners. The reason that this small group of 10 to 30 club members can sway the results is the same reason we end up with lousy politicians Apathy!
Not voting puts the results in the hands of a few rather than the many. Power Voting would be ineffective at Car Shows if a majority of the attendees would take the time to check out the cars and vote for their favorites. If the General Public would just do that, then Power Voting would be of little consequence. But if the General Public doesn't want to be bothered with voting, then Power Voting can absolutely affect the outcome of the trophies awarded.
I know some of you are thinking, "Why not have trophy classes? Won't that help?" We tried having trophy classes for years. It just didn't work and was really unfair to some. One time we would have dozens of cars in the Street Rod Class, then the next time only a few. This was true for almost every show where we had classes. One class would be overloaded and another under represented. Then when we changed things, the problem still existed only in different classes. We felt like a dog chasing its tail trying to keep the classes balanced. It just didn't work. So now we do a People's Choice Award system: if the people like your ride AND they vote for it, you win! The best ideas are always the simplest: get the most votes, and you get Best of Show. This has resulted in the usual outcome, like the Low Rider Bike winning Best of Show in January. The people loved his bike, and he got the most votes so he Won! It's that simple.
For our part, we will continue to ask people to take a ballot and vote for their top 10 favorite vehicles. If they don't, then groups/clubs will control the outcome of the People's Choice Awards at any Car Show. Please do your part, come out on Monday, Memorial Day, May 28 to the next San Diego Car & Cycle Show & Swap at the Q and VOTE!.
See Ya There!
Ray Taylor
Owner of the San Diego Classic Car & Cycle-Show & Swap
and Classic Cars Net Free Classifieds
Tuesday, March 13, 2007
Urgent Legislation Alert Update!
URGENT LEGISLATION ALERT UPDATE!
March 13, 2007
My Fellow Gear Heads!
The people in Sacramento are still at it! Please read the following from our friends at SEMA and ACT! It's up to us to protect the hobby and vehicles we love!
URGENT LEGISLATION ALERT !
Attention California Members:
Here is a preview copy of the April Driving Force article regarding A.B. 616. The complete version of the newsletter will be sent to you later this month.
Thank you,
Jason Tolleson
jasont@sema.org
202/783-6007, ext. 39
=====
Driving Force - April 2007 Issue (PREVIEW)
California Proposes ANNUAL Emissions Tests for
Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older
Pre-1976 Vehicles Would Continue to be Exempt From Smog Check
Enthusiasts in California are rallying against legislation that has been introduced in the State Assembly by Assemblyman Dave Jones to require annual Smog check inspections for vehicles 15-years old and older. In addition, the bill would direct funds generated through the additional inspection fees to be deposited into an account which can be used to scrap older cars. The bill has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee for consideration.
The measure represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to scapegoat older cars for air quality deficiencies. In 2004, despite objections from the vehicle hobby community, California repealed its rolling emissions-test exemption for vehicles 30 years old and older and replaced it with a law requiring the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles.
“Under this year’s bill, pre-1976 vehicles would continue to be exempt from Smog Check”, said Steve McDonald, SEMA Vice President of Government Affairs. “However, vehicles 15 years old and older - currently 1976 through 1992 - that are not currently exempt would move from a biennial test to annual tests with the clear intent of moving them into the scrappage program.”
Sponsors of the legislation ignore the fact that vehicles 15-years old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions reduction. Legislators are also ignoring the fact that classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and infrequently driven.
“Implementing an annual test would not only increase the cost to the vehicle owner, it would also give the state more opportunities to lure these vehicles into retirement,” added McDonald.
Recently, San Joaquin Valley Air Pollution Control District released an updated smog plan that calls for scrapping 30,000 passenger cars, five times the number previously planned. Scrappage programs, widely rejected by other states as an ineffective means of cleaning the air, accelerate the normal demise of vehicles through the purchase of older cars which are then typically crushed into blocks of scrap metal.
“By virtue of these scrappage programs, the vehicle hobby risks the loss of potential collector cars and parts forever that could have been used in a project,” commented SAN Director Jason Tolleson.
==============================
Do nothing and we could all loose our rides to the system. Like I said, it's up to us to Save Our Rides!
Write, Call or/and Email your representative today and tell them how you feel.
Visit The San Diego Auto Swap Website
Be sure and check out all the Great Wheels and Deals on our NEW FREE Classified Site. Just go to www.CarsNet.com , register, login, type in your ad, upload your photos and Bada Bing! your ad is up on the Internet. Try It, Its FREE!!!
Promote Your Business! Ad Space Is Available On Our Memorial Day, May 28 Auto Swap Flier. This flier will be in the Goodie Bags at the Del Mar Good Guys Event! Reserve Your Space Today Is The Last Day, Only One Space Left! Call Now!
See Ya At Da "Q" on Sunday, March 25
Ray Taylor
The CARS Net
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
email: ray@carsnet.com
phone: 858-484-9342
web: www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Friday, March 9, 2007
Thing To Consider When Buying Used Harley Davidson Motorcycle
Thing To Consider When Buying Used Harley Davidson Motorcycle
by: Low Jeremy
Buying a new Harley-Davidson motorcycle is fairly easy. All you have to do is pick a model, visit local dealers, test drive the Harley, and pay in financing or in full. However, buying a used Harley-Davidson motorcycle is a different story. Since it is already used, you should be more extra careful in closing your deal immediately. Here are the things you should consider if you want to buy used Harley-Davidson motorcycle:
Motorcycle history – Since you are not aware of things that have happened while you are yet the owner of the motorcycle, you need to know its history. Here you will learn if it was involved on accidents or have been submerged under water. These information are vital since you want to buy a good used Harley.
Price – One of the reasons why you buy used Harley-Davidson motorcycle is because you want to save. If you are not aware of the current market value of the model you are buying, then it is time for you to make some research.
Overall Condition – Whether you are buying a 1978 or a 2005 model, you have to consider the overall condition of the motorcycle. Never disregard this since you will be the one who will take the whole responsibility of your purchase in case you have bought an ill-maintained motorcycle.
Check the exterior or the motorcycle as well as its performance. Like buying used cars, you should check everything and test-drive the vehicle. Check the sound and the engine. Check for rusts, dents, and other things that may affect the price of the Harley.
Mileage – Since the mileage reading is the main basis of the price of the any type of used vehicle including the Harley-Davidson motorcycle, you must check it and base it on the price being offered.
Proximity – This may not be very important for some. But for those who want to get to see the used Harley motorcycle being sold, location is very important. If a Harley-Davidson seller happens to be near you, you can easily visit and have the deals made fast.
Owner’s background – This does not mean you have to investigate thoroughly the owner by hiring an investigator and make a report for you. All you have to do is to ask the seller questions related on how does he take care of the motorcycle while in his possession. Or, if you happen you have a chance to meet the owner, be observant on the things around him. Surely, you will get clear idea on how well he is as a motorcycle owner.
www.CarsNet.com/motorcycle
by: Low Jeremy
Buying a new Harley-Davidson motorcycle is fairly easy. All you have to do is pick a model, visit local dealers, test drive the Harley, and pay in financing or in full. However, buying a used Harley-Davidson motorcycle is a different story. Since it is already used, you should be more extra careful in closing your deal immediately. Here are the things you should consider if you want to buy used Harley-Davidson motorcycle:
Motorcycle history – Since you are not aware of things that have happened while you are yet the owner of the motorcycle, you need to know its history. Here you will learn if it was involved on accidents or have been submerged under water. These information are vital since you want to buy a good used Harley.
Price – One of the reasons why you buy used Harley-Davidson motorcycle is because you want to save. If you are not aware of the current market value of the model you are buying, then it is time for you to make some research.
Overall Condition – Whether you are buying a 1978 or a 2005 model, you have to consider the overall condition of the motorcycle. Never disregard this since you will be the one who will take the whole responsibility of your purchase in case you have bought an ill-maintained motorcycle.
Check the exterior or the motorcycle as well as its performance. Like buying used cars, you should check everything and test-drive the vehicle. Check the sound and the engine. Check for rusts, dents, and other things that may affect the price of the Harley.
Mileage – Since the mileage reading is the main basis of the price of the any type of used vehicle including the Harley-Davidson motorcycle, you must check it and base it on the price being offered.
Proximity – This may not be very important for some. But for those who want to get to see the used Harley motorcycle being sold, location is very important. If a Harley-Davidson seller happens to be near you, you can easily visit and have the deals made fast.
Owner’s background – This does not mean you have to investigate thoroughly the owner by hiring an investigator and make a report for you. All you have to do is to ask the seller questions related on how does he take care of the motorcycle while in his possession. Or, if you happen you have a chance to meet the owner, be observant on the things around him. Surely, you will get clear idea on how well he is as a motorcycle owner.
www.CarsNet.com/motorcycle
Wednesday, March 7, 2007
Cal Legislative Alert
Jason Tolleson, jasont@sema.org
SEMA 202/783-6007, ext. 39
URGENT LEGISLATIVE ALERT
California Introduces Bill to Require ANNUAL Emissions Tests
for Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older
Here we go again! Legislation (A.B. 616) has been introduced in the California Assembly by Assemblyman Dave Jones to require annual Smog check inspections for vehicles 15-years old and older. The bill would also require that funds generated through the additional inspection fees be deposited into an account which can be used to scrap older cars. You may recall that in 2004 a new law was enacted in California to require the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles. Pre-1976 motor vehicles would remain exempt under A.B. 616. The bill has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee.
We Urge You to Contact Assemblyman Jones and members of the Assembly Transportation Committee (List Below) Immediately to Oppose A.B. 616
A.B. 616 ignores the minimal impact vintage cars have on air quality.
A.B. 616 could entice vintage car owners into allowing these vehicles to be scrapped.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that vehicles 15-years old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions reduction.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and infrequently driven.
A.B. 616 would increase costs by creating an annual inspection fee for owners of these vehicles.
A.B. 616 represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to scapegoat older cars.
Please contact members of the California Assembly Transportation Committee immediately by phone, fax or e-mail to request their opposition to A.B. 616.
Please e-mail a copy of your letter to stevem@sema.org. Thank you for your assistance.
Assembly Transportation Committee
Pedro Nava, Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2035
Fax: (916) 319-2135
Email: Assemblymember.nava@assembly.ca.gov
Michael D. Duvall, Vice-Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2072
Fax: (916) 319-2172
Email: Assemblymember.Duvall@assembly.ca.gov
Wilma Amina Carter
Telephone: (916) 319-2062
Fax: (916) 319-2162
Email: Assemblymember.Carter@assembly.ca.gov
Mike DeSaulnier
Telephone: (916) 319-2011
Fax: (916) 319-2111
Email: Assemblymember.DeSaulnier@assembly.ca.gov
Cathleen Galgiani
Tel: (916) 319-2017
Fax: (916) 319-2117
Email: Assemblymember.Galgiani@assembly.ca.gov
Martin Garrick
Telephone: (916) 319-2074
Fax: (916) 319-2174
Email: Assemblymember.Garrick@assembly.ca.gov
Shirley Horton
Telephone: (916) 319-2078
Email: Assemblymember.Shirley.Horton@assembly.ca.gov
Guy S. Houston
Telephone: (916) 319-2015
Fax: (916) 319-2115
Email: Assemblymember.Houston@assembly.ca.gov
Bob Huff
Telephone: (916) 319-2060
Fax: (916) 319-2160
Email: assemblymember.huff@assembly.ca.gov
Betty Karnette
Telephone: (916) 319-2054
Email: Assemblymember.Karnette@assembly.ca.gov
Anthony J. Portantino
Telephone: (916) 319-2044
Fax: (916) 319-2144
Email: assemblymember.Portantino@assembly.ca.gov
Ira Ruskin
Telephone: (916) 319 - 2021
Fax: (916) 319 – 2121
Email: Assemblymember.Ruskin@assembly.ca.gov
Jose Solorio
Telephone: (916) 319-2069
Fax: (916) 319-2169
Nell Soto
Telephone: (916) 319-2061
Fax: (916) 319-2161
Email: Assemblymember.Soto@assembly.ca.gov
SEMA's mailing address: 1575 S. Valley Vista Dr., Diamond Bar, CA 91765
www.CarsNet.com/motorcycle
SEMA 202/783-6007, ext. 39
URGENT LEGISLATIVE ALERT
California Introduces Bill to Require ANNUAL Emissions Tests
for Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older
Here we go again! Legislation (A.B. 616) has been introduced in the California Assembly by Assemblyman Dave Jones to require annual Smog check inspections for vehicles 15-years old and older. The bill would also require that funds generated through the additional inspection fees be deposited into an account which can be used to scrap older cars. You may recall that in 2004 a new law was enacted in California to require the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles. Pre-1976 motor vehicles would remain exempt under A.B. 616. The bill has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee.
We Urge You to Contact Assemblyman Jones and members of the Assembly Transportation Committee (List Below) Immediately to Oppose A.B. 616
A.B. 616 ignores the minimal impact vintage cars have on air quality.
A.B. 616 could entice vintage car owners into allowing these vehicles to be scrapped.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that vehicles 15-years old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions reduction.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and infrequently driven.
A.B. 616 would increase costs by creating an annual inspection fee for owners of these vehicles.
A.B. 616 represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to scapegoat older cars.
Please contact members of the California Assembly Transportation Committee immediately by phone, fax or e-mail to request their opposition to A.B. 616.
Please e-mail a copy of your letter to stevem@sema.org. Thank you for your assistance.
Assembly Transportation Committee
Pedro Nava, Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2035
Fax: (916) 319-2135
Email: Assemblymember.nava@assembly.ca.gov
Michael D. Duvall, Vice-Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2072
Fax: (916) 319-2172
Email: Assemblymember.Duvall@assembly.ca.gov
Wilma Amina Carter
Telephone: (916) 319-2062
Fax: (916) 319-2162
Email: Assemblymember.Carter@assembly.ca.gov
Mike DeSaulnier
Telephone: (916) 319-2011
Fax: (916) 319-2111
Email: Assemblymember.DeSaulnier@assembly.ca.gov
Cathleen Galgiani
Tel: (916) 319-2017
Fax: (916) 319-2117
Email: Assemblymember.Galgiani@assembly.ca.gov
Martin Garrick
Telephone: (916) 319-2074
Fax: (916) 319-2174
Email: Assemblymember.Garrick@assembly.ca.gov
Shirley Horton
Telephone: (916) 319-2078
Email: Assemblymember.Shirley.Horton@assembly.ca.gov
Guy S. Houston
Telephone: (916) 319-2015
Fax: (916) 319-2115
Email: Assemblymember.Houston@assembly.ca.gov
Bob Huff
Telephone: (916) 319-2060
Fax: (916) 319-2160
Email: assemblymember.huff@assembly.ca.gov
Betty Karnette
Telephone: (916) 319-2054
Email: Assemblymember.Karnette@assembly.ca.gov
Anthony J. Portantino
Telephone: (916) 319-2044
Fax: (916) 319-2144
Email: assemblymember.Portantino@assembly.ca.gov
Ira Ruskin
Telephone: (916) 319 - 2021
Fax: (916) 319 – 2121
Email: Assemblymember.Ruskin@assembly.ca.gov
Jose Solorio
Telephone: (916) 319-2069
Fax: (916) 319-2169
Nell Soto
Telephone: (916) 319-2061
Fax: (916) 319-2161
Email: Assemblymember.Soto@assembly.ca.gov
SEMA's mailing address: 1575 S. Valley Vista Dr., Diamond Bar, CA 91765
www.CarsNet.com/motorcycle
URGENT LEGISLATION ALERT-California Introduces Bill To Require Annual Emmission Test
Jason Tolleson, jasont@sema.org
SEMA 202/783-6007, ext. 39
URGENT LEGISLATIVE ALERT
California Introduces Bill to Require ANNUAL Emissions Tests
for Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older
Here we go again! Legislation (A.B. 616) has been introduced in the California Assembly by Assemblyman Dave Jones to require annual Smog check inspections for vehicles 15-years old and older. The bill would also require that funds generated through the additional inspection fees be deposited into an account which can be used to scrap older cars. You may recall that in 2004 a new law was enacted in California to require the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles. Pre-1976 motor vehicles would remain exempt under A.B. 616. The bill has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee.
We Urge You to Contact Assemblyman Jones and members of the Assembly Transportation Committee (List Below) Immediately to Oppose A.B. 616
A.B. 616 ignores the minimal impact vintage cars have on air quality.
A.B. 616 could entice vintage car owners into allowing these vehicles to be scrapped.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that vehicles 15-years old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions reduction.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and infrequently driven.
A.B. 616 would increase costs by creating an annual inspection fee for owners of these vehicles.
A.B. 616 represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to scapegoat older cars.
Please contact members of the California Assembly Transportation Committee immediately by phone, fax or e-mail to request their opposition to A.B. 616.
Please e-mail a copy of your letter to stevem@sema.org. Thank you for your assistance.
Assembly Transportation Committee
Pedro Nava, Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2035
Fax: (916) 319-2135
Email: Assemblymember.nava@assembly.ca.gov
Michael D. Duvall, Vice-Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2072
Fax: (916) 319-2172
Email: Assemblymember.Duvall@assembly.ca.gov
Wilma Amina Carter
Telephone: (916) 319-2062
Fax: (916) 319-2162
Email: Assemblymember.Carter@assembly.ca.gov
Mike DeSaulnier
Telephone: (916) 319-2011
Fax: (916) 319-2111
Email: Assemblymember.DeSaulnier@assembly.ca.gov
Cathleen Galgiani
Tel: (916) 319-2017
Fax: (916) 319-2117
Email: Assemblymember.Galgiani@assembly.ca.gov
Martin Garrick
Telephone: (916) 319-2074
Fax: (916) 319-2174
Email: Assemblymember.Garrick@assembly.ca.gov
Shirley Horton
Telephone: (916) 319-2078
Email: Assemblymember.Shirley.Horton@assembly.ca.gov
Guy S. Houston
Telephone: (916) 319-2015
Fax: (916) 319-2115
Email: Assemblymember.Houston@assembly.ca.gov
Bob Huff
Telephone: (916) 319-2060
Fax: (916) 319-2160
Email: assemblymember.huff@assembly.ca.gov
Betty Karnette
Telephone: (916) 319-2054
Email: Assemblymember.Karnette@assembly.ca.gov
Anthony J. Portantino
Telephone: (916) 319-2044
Fax: (916) 319-2144
Email: assemblymember.Portantino@assembly.ca.gov
Ira Ruskin
Telephone: (916) 319 - 2021
Fax: (916) 319 – 2121
Email: Assemblymember.Ruskin@assembly.ca.gov
Jose Solorio
Telephone: (916) 319-2069
Fax: (916) 319-2169
Nell Soto
Telephone: (916) 319-2061
Fax: (916) 319-2161
Email: Assemblymember.Soto@assembly.ca.gov
SEMA's mailing address: 1575 S. Valley Vista Dr., Diamond Bar, CA 91765
www.CarsNet.com/motorcycle
SEMA 202/783-6007, ext. 39
URGENT LEGISLATIVE ALERT
California Introduces Bill to Require ANNUAL Emissions Tests
for Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older
Here we go again! Legislation (A.B. 616) has been introduced in the California Assembly by Assemblyman Dave Jones to require annual Smog check inspections for vehicles 15-years old and older. The bill would also require that funds generated through the additional inspection fees be deposited into an account which can be used to scrap older cars. You may recall that in 2004 a new law was enacted in California to require the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles. Pre-1976 motor vehicles would remain exempt under A.B. 616. The bill has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee.
We Urge You to Contact Assemblyman Jones and members of the Assembly Transportation Committee (List Below) Immediately to Oppose A.B. 616
A.B. 616 ignores the minimal impact vintage cars have on air quality.
A.B. 616 could entice vintage car owners into allowing these vehicles to be scrapped.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that vehicles 15-years old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions reduction.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and infrequently driven.
A.B. 616 would increase costs by creating an annual inspection fee for owners of these vehicles.
A.B. 616 represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to scapegoat older cars.
Please contact members of the California Assembly Transportation Committee immediately by phone, fax or e-mail to request their opposition to A.B. 616.
Please e-mail a copy of your letter to stevem@sema.org. Thank you for your assistance.
Assembly Transportation Committee
Pedro Nava, Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2035
Fax: (916) 319-2135
Email: Assemblymember.nava@assembly.ca.gov
Michael D. Duvall, Vice-Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2072
Fax: (916) 319-2172
Email: Assemblymember.Duvall@assembly.ca.gov
Wilma Amina Carter
Telephone: (916) 319-2062
Fax: (916) 319-2162
Email: Assemblymember.Carter@assembly.ca.gov
Mike DeSaulnier
Telephone: (916) 319-2011
Fax: (916) 319-2111
Email: Assemblymember.DeSaulnier@assembly.ca.gov
Cathleen Galgiani
Tel: (916) 319-2017
Fax: (916) 319-2117
Email: Assemblymember.Galgiani@assembly.ca.gov
Martin Garrick
Telephone: (916) 319-2074
Fax: (916) 319-2174
Email: Assemblymember.Garrick@assembly.ca.gov
Shirley Horton
Telephone: (916) 319-2078
Email: Assemblymember.Shirley.Horton@assembly.ca.gov
Guy S. Houston
Telephone: (916) 319-2015
Fax: (916) 319-2115
Email: Assemblymember.Houston@assembly.ca.gov
Bob Huff
Telephone: (916) 319-2060
Fax: (916) 319-2160
Email: assemblymember.huff@assembly.ca.gov
Betty Karnette
Telephone: (916) 319-2054
Email: Assemblymember.Karnette@assembly.ca.gov
Anthony J. Portantino
Telephone: (916) 319-2044
Fax: (916) 319-2144
Email: assemblymember.Portantino@assembly.ca.gov
Ira Ruskin
Telephone: (916) 319 - 2021
Fax: (916) 319 – 2121
Email: Assemblymember.Ruskin@assembly.ca.gov
Jose Solorio
Telephone: (916) 319-2069
Fax: (916) 319-2169
Nell Soto
Telephone: (916) 319-2061
Fax: (916) 319-2161
Email: Assemblymember.Soto@assembly.ca.gov
SEMA's mailing address: 1575 S. Valley Vista Dr., Diamond Bar, CA 91765
www.CarsNet.com/motorcycle
Monday, March 5, 2007
Motorcycle Clutch Problems
Motorcycle Clutch Problems
by: Maricon Williams
Both OEM and aftermarket motorcycle parts have their own sets of advantages and disadvantages. The former may be expensive compared to the latter however, buyers can be assured of its quality since they are equivalent to the parts that are already in the motorcycle when they are purchased. On the other hand, aftermarket motorcycle parts may be cheaper than the OEM parts. Moreover, they can be of equal or lesser quality than the latter.
Whatever motorcycle parts you choose, there is still that degree of caution and responsibility. Let us take motorcycle clutch as an example…
The usual problem with a motorcycle clutch is that it drags or slips. You may be driving confidently then suddenly surrounding circumstances tell your mind to hit the clutch but it won’t work because it slips? What do you think will result? This is pretty dangerous since it can spell a terrible crash, bump or worst loss of life.
To preclude these things to happen, there are several things that we can do. First, you can drill holes in each friction plate. Might as well, clean and chamfer the holes and notches located at the edges of the steel plates. This way they will not slip without getting caught. Then, replace the rivets on inner clutch hub liner with nylatron. In order to do this, you have to remove the hub off the shaft and knock the rivets out. Clean up the surfaces. After cleaning, put the hub and basket on. Now you need not worry about your clutch because these things keep the clutch from dragging and slipping. It will allow its smooth and accurate release.
If you still have slip problems after assembly, before you crank the spring tension, you must take out the friction plates and examine whether there are shiny spots. Friction happens in these shiny spots. To eliminate them, use emery paper and sand off the spots then make the plate flat. When all plates are in good and uniform contact with each other you have a very good chance of running very light spring pressure without slip. Thus, it creates a nice easy shifting at your pleasure and safety!
Keep the clutch always in contact that fact alone can save your ride. Riding worry-free without any apprehensions makes your ride more exciting and fun!
www.CarsNet.com/motorcycle
by: Maricon Williams
Both OEM and aftermarket motorcycle parts have their own sets of advantages and disadvantages. The former may be expensive compared to the latter however, buyers can be assured of its quality since they are equivalent to the parts that are already in the motorcycle when they are purchased. On the other hand, aftermarket motorcycle parts may be cheaper than the OEM parts. Moreover, they can be of equal or lesser quality than the latter.
Whatever motorcycle parts you choose, there is still that degree of caution and responsibility. Let us take motorcycle clutch as an example…
The usual problem with a motorcycle clutch is that it drags or slips. You may be driving confidently then suddenly surrounding circumstances tell your mind to hit the clutch but it won’t work because it slips? What do you think will result? This is pretty dangerous since it can spell a terrible crash, bump or worst loss of life.
To preclude these things to happen, there are several things that we can do. First, you can drill holes in each friction plate. Might as well, clean and chamfer the holes and notches located at the edges of the steel plates. This way they will not slip without getting caught. Then, replace the rivets on inner clutch hub liner with nylatron. In order to do this, you have to remove the hub off the shaft and knock the rivets out. Clean up the surfaces. After cleaning, put the hub and basket on. Now you need not worry about your clutch because these things keep the clutch from dragging and slipping. It will allow its smooth and accurate release.
If you still have slip problems after assembly, before you crank the spring tension, you must take out the friction plates and examine whether there are shiny spots. Friction happens in these shiny spots. To eliminate them, use emery paper and sand off the spots then make the plate flat. When all plates are in good and uniform contact with each other you have a very good chance of running very light spring pressure without slip. Thus, it creates a nice easy shifting at your pleasure and safety!
Keep the clutch always in contact that fact alone can save your ride. Riding worry-free without any apprehensions makes your ride more exciting and fun!
www.CarsNet.com/motorcycle
Thursday, March 1, 2007
Used Motorcycle Parts Prices And Advice
Used Motorcycle Parts Prices And Advice
by: Abdul Martin
When you consider buying used motorcycle parts and accessories you have several options. Lets consider each and see the pros and cons…
Buying from a brand name dealership
It’s a safe and secure way to go. It's also a great place to inquire about used motorcycle prices. Some brands have a reselling program which guarantees the bikes quality. Honda and Harley and even BMW have such a program.
Buying from a general dealership
The advantage is a general dealership has many different brands and sell different quality bikes. But in case you don’t know the dealer well then keep your hands I your pockets. I would prefer to buy directly from the owner than a general dealership
Buying from an auction
Consider this option only if you are experienced. There is a huge difference buying and riding.
Last but not the least Buying from the previous owner.
This is your best way to find out about the bike, history and other specifics.
But know a little about the market prices for the motorcycle part or accessory you want to buy .
Now that you have decided to buy read the following purchase tips.
Always pay in cash as you can make and quick offer and the seller will be more open to sell at a lower price as he gets the money ASAP.
Check and double check the motorcycle part before buying. You can ask for some expert help on cross checking also.
If you are not so experienced then buy a 4-stroke engine as it gives fewer problems. But experienced can definitely buy two-stroke motorcycles parts.
Make sure you get the best deal on motorcycle parts and accessories. In doubt check the various places like magazines and newspapers and of course ebay to check out better deals and it also gives you more options.
It's time to let them enjoy their motorcycle ride.
www.CarsNet.com/motorcycle
by: Abdul Martin
When you consider buying used motorcycle parts and accessories you have several options. Lets consider each and see the pros and cons…
Buying from a brand name dealership
It’s a safe and secure way to go. It's also a great place to inquire about used motorcycle prices. Some brands have a reselling program which guarantees the bikes quality. Honda and Harley and even BMW have such a program.
Buying from a general dealership
The advantage is a general dealership has many different brands and sell different quality bikes. But in case you don’t know the dealer well then keep your hands I your pockets. I would prefer to buy directly from the owner than a general dealership
Buying from an auction
Consider this option only if you are experienced. There is a huge difference buying and riding.
Last but not the least Buying from the previous owner.
This is your best way to find out about the bike, history and other specifics.
But know a little about the market prices for the motorcycle part or accessory you want to buy .
Now that you have decided to buy read the following purchase tips.
Always pay in cash as you can make and quick offer and the seller will be more open to sell at a lower price as he gets the money ASAP.
Check and double check the motorcycle part before buying. You can ask for some expert help on cross checking also.
If you are not so experienced then buy a 4-stroke engine as it gives fewer problems. But experienced can definitely buy two-stroke motorcycles parts.
Make sure you get the best deal on motorcycle parts and accessories. In doubt check the various places like magazines and newspapers and of course ebay to check out better deals and it also gives you more options.
It's time to let them enjoy their motorcycle ride.
www.CarsNet.com/motorcycle
Wednesday, February 28, 2007
Why You Should Not Buy A Used Motorcycle Helmet
Why You Should Not Buy A Used Motorcycle Helmet
by: Low Jeremy
A motorcycle helmet is one of those essentials that will help save your life should you have an accident while riding your bike. This will protect your head from a damaging and even potentially fatal head injury. Motorcycle helmets are so important that state lawmakers have even included a directive in the state laws that orders all people riding the motorcycle to wear helmets.
Some people though do not understand the importance of this accessory. In fact, some people do not even like wearing it because it is too heavy and too suffocating. Others find it a killjoy to not be able to feel the wind on their faces when riding a motorbike.
Motorcycle helmets are not really that expensive but they are also not cheap. Some who are not that well-informed will probably save all their money for the motorcycle leaving a really small budget for safety gears like the helmet. Some even buy used helmets instead of new ones. This, however, is one practice that should not be encouraged.
Using used helmets is extremely dangerous and impractical. Used helmets are actually worthless and what is more you cannot really tell whether they are damaged or not. You won’t even be able to tell if they are relatively new ones or not. This is because the helmet is made from a hard outer shell that envelops a layer of expanded polystyrene. You will never be able to tell if the expanded polystyrene is already compressed or not unless you cut the outer shell. An already compressed polystyrene layer will not protect you from an accident.
Another thing that you should consider is the fact that polystyrene becomes brittle as it ages. This is the reason why old helmets should be exchanged for new ones in a couple of years as it may not be able to absorb much of the impact when an accident does happen. The polystyrene layer is also easily damaged by the sun and by chemicals such as gas vapors.
Motor bikers who always place their helmet near the gas tank will also unknowingly damage the lining of the helmet. It is also not a good idea to always let the helmet sit under the heat of the sun. If you can, try to park your motorbike in areas that are shaded. Pointed objects may also compromise the lifespan of the helmet by piercing through the polystyrene layer inside.
www.carsnet.com/motorcycle
by: Low Jeremy
A motorcycle helmet is one of those essentials that will help save your life should you have an accident while riding your bike. This will protect your head from a damaging and even potentially fatal head injury. Motorcycle helmets are so important that state lawmakers have even included a directive in the state laws that orders all people riding the motorcycle to wear helmets.
Some people though do not understand the importance of this accessory. In fact, some people do not even like wearing it because it is too heavy and too suffocating. Others find it a killjoy to not be able to feel the wind on their faces when riding a motorbike.
Motorcycle helmets are not really that expensive but they are also not cheap. Some who are not that well-informed will probably save all their money for the motorcycle leaving a really small budget for safety gears like the helmet. Some even buy used helmets instead of new ones. This, however, is one practice that should not be encouraged.
Using used helmets is extremely dangerous and impractical. Used helmets are actually worthless and what is more you cannot really tell whether they are damaged or not. You won’t even be able to tell if they are relatively new ones or not. This is because the helmet is made from a hard outer shell that envelops a layer of expanded polystyrene. You will never be able to tell if the expanded polystyrene is already compressed or not unless you cut the outer shell. An already compressed polystyrene layer will not protect you from an accident.
Another thing that you should consider is the fact that polystyrene becomes brittle as it ages. This is the reason why old helmets should be exchanged for new ones in a couple of years as it may not be able to absorb much of the impact when an accident does happen. The polystyrene layer is also easily damaged by the sun and by chemicals such as gas vapors.
Motor bikers who always place their helmet near the gas tank will also unknowingly damage the lining of the helmet. It is also not a good idea to always let the helmet sit under the heat of the sun. If you can, try to park your motorbike in areas that are shaded. Pointed objects may also compromise the lifespan of the helmet by piercing through the polystyrene layer inside.
www.carsnet.com/motorcycle
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